AUSTRALIAN rieslings in all price ranges are better than they ever have been.
The flavours and textures have changed from being peculiarly Australian up to about seven to eight years ago to being more internationally recognisable as riesling.
The great values for money include the Angove Riesling Gewurztraminer 2011 (18+ points and $6 to $7) and both Larry Cherubino’s Ad Hock Wall Flower Riesling 2011 and Xabregas Estate Riesling (both at 18.4 points and under $20) from the Great Southern.
These three are exceptional value.
The pick of the midrange rieslings include the O’Leary Walker trio of Watervale 2011 (18.1pts), Polish Hill 2011 (18.2pts) and the Dr’s Cut 2010 and, from the west, The Yard Pannoo 2010 (18.4pts and delicious) and Riversdale 2011 (18.3pts) releases.
Winewise magazine, a thought-provoking subscription newsletter from the eastern states, recently suggested that WA rieslings are now so good that a taste-off with the eastern states’ finest would be worthwhile.
Added to that thought is James Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion 2011, in which WA, from its 1 or 2 per cent of Australia’s riesling, gained seven of the highest-ranked 30 wines.
The best of the “off dry” rieslings? Many of our best riesling makers are now making medium sweet versions and The Yard Bimbimbi 2010 – “long, soft, sweet, balanced and textured” – is the pick. 18.6pts and $27.
And the best of the aged rieslings?
The Peter Lehmann Wigan Eden Valley release 2005 (18.8 points, five trophies and eight gold medals) is among the two finest aged Australian rieslings tasted in 10 years. 18.8 points and $33.
Howard Park Great Southern Riesling 2010: Dry, lean and long but lovely, refined, elegant and classy. Enormous length. Two trophies. 18.7pts.
Grosset Polish Hill 2011: Full, long, balanced, placid and round. Amazing length – and will improve! 18.7pts.
Cherubino Porongurup Riesling 2010: Brilliant. Beautifully crafted and wonderful long fruit. 18.8pts.
Xabregas X Figtree Riesling 2010: Extraordinary. Classical length and European texture. 18.9pts.