Money in the blanc

23/Feb/2010

Comments:

Importer John Scarff with Old Bridge Cellars owner Gerry Smith. Importer John Scarff with Old Bridge Cellars owner Gerry Smith.

THERE is a whiff of intrigue and mystery about the Leon Palais Blanc de Blanc NV sparkler, which topped our recent sparkling wine tasting for both price and quality.

On the one hand, we have been told that the wine is produced in France from grapes grown in the Cava region in Spain and yet the international reviews state the wine is produced in the Jura region near the French Swiss border.

Some reports say it is made from the traditional Spanish sparkling varieties, while others state it is produced from chardonnay, the only white variety used to produce champagne.

The varieties and region of origin become irrelevant when this wine is tasted in masked line-ups because whether the reviews are from New Zealand, America or Australia, it continuously shows up as one of the best value sparkling wines.

One of the reviewers correctly summed the wine up as being perhaps below champagne in quality but, at a quarter or a sixth of the price, it was far softer and more interesting than competitively priced Cava, the Spanish sparkling wines.

At the Western Suburbs Weekly tasting table it was the preferred drink in a line-up that included four major Australian sparkling wine brands and a (French) Champagne, among others, of which three retailed at more than $40 and the others more than $25.

The Leon Palais Blanc de Blanc non vintage is restrained, elegant and long.

The finesse of the sparkle is commented on by a number of the international reviewers and this is a well-made, low- key, wonderfully crafted wine for this price range.

This is satisfying and perfectly pitched for either a dinner for two or a party for 80.

The notes from our masked sparkling tasting included, “Yes – if the price is right”, and the price was right in this line- up!

This brand has been available in WA previously and while it was good and good value for money, the new agent’s first shipment has proved to be a far superior wine.

It is just starting to be distributed to restaurateurs and retailers, so for stockists call Larry on 0439 955 437 or email larry@celestialbay.com.au.

17.8 points RRP $16.50

Altos Las Hormigas 2008
Perhaps the world has never given malbec, the Red Bordeaux blending varietal, the attention it deserves.

Argentina has made the variety its own in the same way Australia and New Zealand created the world shiraz and sauvignon blanc phenomena.

Argentina’s finest malbecs are consistently being awarded higher points in the world’s most respected wine magazines than most famous Bordeaux and Burgundian releases.

Altos, owned by an Italian wine making company, is producing some of Argentina’s best value and this wine, without being a superstar, shows why the variety has become an overnight sensation.

It is balanced, juicy in the middle palate, round and of a lighter style.

It is well handled with fine but firm tannins and has a fine- knit quality texture for a wine in this price range.

A lovely (and typical) varietal mouthful at the price.

The American Wine Spectator summed it up best: “This is ripe, with raspberry and boysenberry fruit laced with notes of mocha and fruitcake. Fleshy and round. A crowd-pleaser. Drink now. 87 points.”

This is available at Swanbourne Cellars, Cellarbrations on Preston Street, Como and the two Wine Boxes in Shenton Park and Nedlands.

The western suburb’s restaurant stockists include Ruby’s, Rialto and Peruginos.
17.5pts RRP $19.00



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