WHILE Margaret River’s semillon-sauvignon blanc blends have been dominating Australian shows, reviews and wine sales, there are significant changes occurring in this market.
Firstly, while the best wines of the past were zesty and delicious, there are more good wines coming on to the market than ever before.
Secondly, the major interest in these blends appears to be on the lightly wooded versions where complexity and food friendliness are maximised.
Thirdly, in a recent fairly comprehensive SBS blend tasting, unusually the majority of the finer examples were from lesser known producers.
Fourthly, in an era in which WA’s wineries are complaining about a lack of opportunities to sell wine and the competition from New Zealand, it was also interesting to note that it was very difficult to get background information on or to speak to the producers involved about some these wines.
This is the first of, and as such is the wine to launch, Clairault’s new Site Series labels.
The 79 refers to the year of planting and Clairault is releasing a high quality wooded version of this blend for the first time.
This too is warm, round, full and beautifully balanced.
It is low keyed and restrained – and perhaps even too young at present – with its youthfully closed finish and aftertaste.
Still, better drinking than most for this summer; this is no shrinking violet.
It is an exciting, complex and powerful wine that will need some months to reach its full potential.
18.2 points RRP $35
Another lesser-known producer, though the wine-making is handled by the ubiquitous Bruce Dukes.
The previous release won gold medals at the Sydney International Winemaker’s Competition and at Margaret River and this vintage has gained gold in Sydney too.
This is also wooded, worked and complex and it has high quality fruit of enormous length.
This wine has “life”.
Marvellous value and great drinking.
18.3pts RRP about $22 (contact Michelle on the Ibizan website).